My Sky Arrow has had recurring problems with charging over 10 years and about 470 hours. It was hard to tell whether it was due to bad/loose connections in the multi-pin connector or actual problems with the regulator itself.
The plane would often go for years with no problem, but it reared its ugly head again a few weeks ago - I started the plane up and the GEN light stayed on solid. Suspecting the plug, I found this:
Cleaning up the spades and applying some Stabilant-22 worked, but the other day I saw the GEN light flicker on base, which it never does normally.
I knew RV owners have had their issues with the Ducati regulator, often blamed on it not cooling properly in its original location on RV12's. And the some had converted to a John Deere part to good effect.
In any case, I installed a John Deere ($23.10 from Amazon) today with the help of a friend. Here it is in place:
We held out breaths but on startup everything looked good - no GEN light and good voltage:
Note: My plane's voltmeter has always read about 1 volt high (1), but I tend to trust the bus voltage shown on my Garmin (2).
The complete story here if you're interested: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/s ... ?p=1141868
Of course, only an option if one is Experimental. Still, something to consider if you are and are having issues.
Voltage Regulator - Ducati to John Deere
Moderator: drseti
- FastEddieB
- Posts: 2880
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- Location: Lenoir City, TN/Mineral Bluff, GA
- FastEddieB
- Posts: 2880
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:33 pm
- Location: Lenoir City, TN/Mineral Bluff, GA
Re: Voltage Regulator - Ducati to John Deere
Got to the hangar and made a short flight yesterday.
Voltage readings (engine off):
Battery (Aerovoltz lithium iron) with Master Off: 13.25v
Battery with Master On: 13.11v
Garmin: 12.7v
Panel 12v outlet: 12.97v
Panel voltmeter: about 13.8v (a little parallax error in photo below)
Engine off:
Went flying, and with just the strobes and landing light on, saw the voltage gradually go from about 13.7v to 14v (on the Garmin) where it seemed to level off:
This is I think about .3v higher than the Ducati. Note the panel mounted voltmeter is consistently showing about 1v high.
I was a little surprised at the high resting voltage - I'm used to seeing about 12.7v on most lead-acid batteries. But the Aerovoltz data sheet says that higher voltage is typical, and the 14v charging rate is in the acceptable range:
Anyway, so far, so good. If anything changes, I'll report back.
Voltage readings (engine off):
Battery (Aerovoltz lithium iron) with Master Off: 13.25v
Battery with Master On: 13.11v
Garmin: 12.7v
Panel 12v outlet: 12.97v
Panel voltmeter: about 13.8v (a little parallax error in photo below)
Engine off:
Went flying, and with just the strobes and landing light on, saw the voltage gradually go from about 13.7v to 14v (on the Garmin) where it seemed to level off:
This is I think about .3v higher than the Ducati. Note the panel mounted voltmeter is consistently showing about 1v high.
I was a little surprised at the high resting voltage - I'm used to seeing about 12.7v on most lead-acid batteries. But the Aerovoltz data sheet says that higher voltage is typical, and the 14v charging rate is in the acceptable range:
Anyway, so far, so good. If anything changes, I'll report back.
Re: Voltage Regulator - Ducati to John Deere
Certainly more affordable than the Silent-Hektik I went with.
I do love the extra voltage I get though. 14.2 on average
Let's hope you get good results from it FastEddieB. It's certainly affordable.
I do love the extra voltage I get though. 14.2 on average
Let's hope you get good results from it FastEddieB. It's certainly affordable.
- FastEddieB
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Re: Voltage Regulator - Ducati to John Deere
Since this got bumped...
Hard to believe it’s been almost a year since installing the John Deere.
Still performing solidly, cranking out a very steady 14v as shown on my Garmin.
Hard to believe it’s been almost a year since installing the John Deere.
Still performing solidly, cranking out a very steady 14v as shown on my Garmin.
Re: Voltage Regulator - Ducati to John Deere
Great.FastEddieB wrote:Since this got bumped...
Hard to believe it’s been almost a year since installing the John Deere.
Still performing solidly, cranking out a very steady 14v as shown on my Garmin.
Thanks for the update.
Bill Ince
LSRI
Retired Heavy Equipment Operator
LSRI
Retired Heavy Equipment Operator
Re: Voltage Regulator - Ducati to John Deere
Do you have a link or part number? These are cheap enough I might keep one in my field repair kit in case my Ducati snuffs it.FastEddieB wrote:Since this got bumped...
Hard to believe it’s been almost a year since installing the John Deere.
Still performing solidly, cranking out a very steady 14v as shown on my Garmin.
Andy Walker
Athens, GA
Sport Pilot ASEL, LSRI
2007 Flight Design CTSW E-LSA
Athens, GA
Sport Pilot ASEL, LSRI
2007 Flight Design CTSW E-LSA
- FastEddieB
- Posts: 2880
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:33 pm
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Re: Voltage Regulator - Ducati to John Deere
Ordered, less than $21. Thanks.
Andy Walker
Athens, GA
Sport Pilot ASEL, LSRI
2007 Flight Design CTSW E-LSA
Athens, GA
Sport Pilot ASEL, LSRI
2007 Flight Design CTSW E-LSA
- FastEddieB
- Posts: 2880
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:33 pm
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Re: Voltage Regulator - Ducati to John Deere
If you decide to go that way, let me know, I’d be happy to help.
Refer to the linked Vans forum thread about how to reconcile 6 leads vs only 5 terminals.
Refer to the linked Vans forum thread about how to reconcile 6 leads vs only 5 terminals.
Re: Voltage Regulator - Ducati to John Deere
I looked through the linked info, seems straightforward. Thanks!FastEddieB wrote:If you decide to go that way, let me know, I’d be happy to help.
Refer to the linked Vans forum thread about how to reconcile 6 leads vs only 5 terminals.
Andy Walker
Athens, GA
Sport Pilot ASEL, LSRI
2007 Flight Design CTSW E-LSA
Athens, GA
Sport Pilot ASEL, LSRI
2007 Flight Design CTSW E-LSA
Re: Voltage Regulator - Ducati to John Deere
Quick question regarding the connections on this regulator:
Eddie, I notice you are using a two blade connector/splitter for the R and B+ wires. In my install I'm not sure if that will work well space-wise, so...
Is it possible to simply crimp the two wires to a single spade connector and then attach it to the B+ blade on the connector? Electrically this is the same, though you might need to use a connector that could accept a larger wire size, and I'd certain solder after crimping to insure a good bonded connection and use heat-shrink sleeve on it for support.
There might be some reason this is a no-no, though I can't think of what it might be. I admit to having fairly meager skills relating to electrons and their flow.
Eddie, I notice you are using a two blade connector/splitter for the R and B+ wires. In my install I'm not sure if that will work well space-wise, so...
Is it possible to simply crimp the two wires to a single spade connector and then attach it to the B+ blade on the connector? Electrically this is the same, though you might need to use a connector that could accept a larger wire size, and I'd certain solder after crimping to insure a good bonded connection and use heat-shrink sleeve on it for support.
There might be some reason this is a no-no, though I can't think of what it might be. I admit to having fairly meager skills relating to electrons and their flow.
Andy Walker
Athens, GA
Sport Pilot ASEL, LSRI
2007 Flight Design CTSW E-LSA
Athens, GA
Sport Pilot ASEL, LSRI
2007 Flight Design CTSW E-LSA
- FastEddieB
- Posts: 2880
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:33 pm
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Re: Voltage Regulator - Ducati to John Deere
All sounds kosher to me.
The only thing is, I might forego the solder. I think I’ve read a solid crimped connection is as good or better, and that’s what you tend to find in aircraft. I think the idea is the solder makes the joint more brittle, and that itself can lead to failure.
The only thing is, I might forego the solder. I think I’ve read a solid crimped connection is as good or better, and that’s what you tend to find in aircraft. I think the idea is the solder makes the joint more brittle, and that itself can lead to failure.
Re: Voltage Regulator - Ducati to John Deere
That's true, but in this case you are crimping one connector to two wires. In this case even if you twist the wires together first, I'm not sure how you'd ensure equal crimp on both wires without physically connecting them. I took the SportAir Workshops electrical course, and the instructor said there is no problem with soldered connections IF they are properly supported in a connector and/or with heat shrink.FastEddieB wrote:All sounds kosher to me.
The only thing is, I might forego the solder. I think I’ve read a solid crimped connection is as good or better, and that’s what you tend to find in aircraft. I think the idea is the solder makes the joint more brittle, and that itself can lead to failure.
Just my thinking, I could be wrong on that.
Andy Walker
Athens, GA
Sport Pilot ASEL, LSRI
2007 Flight Design CTSW E-LSA
Athens, GA
Sport Pilot ASEL, LSRI
2007 Flight Design CTSW E-LSA
Re: Voltage Regulator - Ducati to John Deere
True as far as that goes, but...MrMorden wrote: I took the SportAir Workshops electrical course, and the instructor said there is no problem with soldered connections IF they are properly supported in a connector and/or with heat shrink.
Note that the electrical system uses stranded wire. This is because stranded is more flexible (and less subject to breakage) than solid. If you solder the end of a stranded wire properly, some of the solder will wick up the wire, connecting the strands to each other. This effectively converts a stranded to a solid wire, compromising its flexibility and increasing its tendency to break when flexed. Yes, proper support of the wires can mitigate this, but in every Rotax installation I've seen, there is no physical support of the wires into the voltage regulator module, save for the block through which the crimp connectors pass. So, I would be hesitant to solder them.
The opinions posted are those of one CFI, and do not necessarily represent the FAA or its lawyers.
Prof H Paul Shuch
PhD CFII DPE LSRM-A/GL/WS/PPC iRMT
AvSport LLC, KLHV
[email protected]
AvSport.org
facebook.com/SportFlying
SportPilotExaminer.US
Prof H Paul Shuch
PhD CFII DPE LSRM-A/GL/WS/PPC iRMT
AvSport LLC, KLHV
[email protected]
AvSport.org
facebook.com/SportFlying
SportPilotExaminer.US
Re: Voltage Regulator - Ducati to John Deere
I agree with FastEddieB and Paul, I would forgo the solder. It's really not a good idea for reasons stated.drseti wrote:True as far as that goes, but...MrMorden wrote: I took the SportAir Workshops electrical course, and the instructor said there is no problem with soldered connections IF they are properly supported in a connector and/or with heat shrink.
Note that the electrical system uses stranded wire. This is because stranded is more flexible (and less subject to breakage) than solid. If you solder the end of a stranded wire properly, some of the solder will wick up the wire, connecting the strands to each other. This effectively converts a stranded to a solid wire, compromising its flexibility and increasing its tendency to break when flexed. Yes, proper support of the wires can mitigate this, but in every Rotax installation I've seen, there is no physical support of the wires into the voltage regulator module, save for the block through which the crimp connectors pass. So, I would be hesitant to solder them.